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Sunday, January 13, 2008

Au Revoir

Bye bye Paris, bye bye France... Bisous bisous. Bye bye to baguette and cafe breakfasts. Farewell, romantic streets. Au revoir, metro. Goodbye wine... and croissants... green markets, bistros, cheese, black wool pea coats, clickety-clack heels during rush hour, my beloved guide bible, masterpieces of art behind glass, French MTV, Monoprix, snobby restaurant owners, Yellow lights at night, the Seine. Bye bye, bye bye. I don't know how I was living before, not knowing all of you. And now, adieu... giving you a wave soon from the other side of the ocean and a whole other side of living :)

Last Day in Paris

It's my last last day... so sad :(
I don't want to leave Parisssss... but lots to do until my 6am flight to Frankfurt, then JFK. Still need to take a lot of pictures and buy a lot of things!

Monday, January 7, 2008

Some Chapters from my Parisian [Ethnographies]

15e Arrondisement
Cafe, practically writing a novel

Chapter One: Some Realizations at Musee d'Orsay

So much has been happening and it's now been officially one week since I came to Paris... feels so much longer than that. Feels like an eternity (in an absolutely magnificent way, of course). I just returned from my first day of class at Alliance Francaise and now having a coffee at a brasserie near the apartment, determined to put on paper all that's happened so far. An impossible task seems like but I will do it somehow- it's a writer's responsibility to translate experiences and emotions, as indescribable as Paris, into penned words.

Fuck. Where do I even begin? The Louvre, Orsay, Sacre Coeur, reuniting with a high school friend... complete saturation of ideas and memories both distance and sharp. It's kind of like an impressionist painting: blurry up close, but vibrant, bold, and understandable from a distance. OK, let's back up then.

Last Wednesday and Thursday was my dinner with Frantz's friends and registering for my French course (which I've just begun this week). Previously, I had learned that the Musee d'Orsay was free on Thursday nights from 6pm on for those younger than 26 years old (this later led to a "teehee" sort of scavenger hunt for all free of charge events and other loopholes which most people don't know about). So armed with my journal and fully charged camera, I took the metro to the site and found quite a line to gain entrance.

I really had one thing on my mind as I finally entered the place: Impressionists. So, I took some quick pictures of the interior (it used to be a train station) and then bolted for the upper level galleries. Wrong move wearing heels that night... I completely killed my feet. But anyway, it wasn't on my mind all that much. The upper level gallery is like Impressionism heaven, with the ignorant swarming the well-known pieces. But I took my time. I feel as though I walk around Paris with my mouth wide open a lot. The symptons: neck cramps and dry mouth. The French prescription: down those bottles of wine like it's water!

There's no possible way to describe the Orsay collection of impressionists but I'll try my best. OK, imagine this: you're walking through a dream, as if on some sort of narcotic, in which monet pastels and vivid Van Gogh golds and blues and rosey reniors swirl about in some trippy sort of concoction. Yep, that's the closest description I can come to. It's life-changing, no joke!

On the verge of sounding like a complete museum freak/nerd/loser, I was so so excited to see Klimt (my idol) except, much to my disappointment, they had only a one single painting.... People were wondering why my expression kept changing from joy to hatred, back and forth. ONE SINGLE PAINTING of possibly the greatest emotional portraying artist ever...

After leaving Orsay, I wondered a lot about my life for some reason. I'm finding that Paris makes you do that. I decided to take a walk to St. Germain for something to eat and all of a sudden felt really... lonely but happy too... but sad at the same time (recall: scene from Montparnasse woman in film, Paris, Je T'aime) I've felt lonely at other times- my biggest worry about coming to Paris. It's like a lonely feeling in which I wish I had someone to talk with. But then at the same time, so happy that I'm alone and free in a sort of way. I was just like, you know what- I'm here, I did it, and to hell with people and disappointments. I started thinking about the past year a lot since last January when I was a senior in high school: I had a pretty rough year with relationships (friends, guys, parents, etc). But I feel like now, I'm ready to finally be by myself and accept myself. It's strange when it takes some crazy initiative and some kind of gut feeling to understand that. Whatever the case, I embraced it and was just like, okay- done with. So, I found an amazing creperie and ordered a crepe with everything on it and a glass of Chardonnay. It tasted as good as a painting.

Chapter 2: The Monsieur Cravate Rouge incident at Musee du Louvre

The next day, I let myself sleep in (we're on Friday, now?). And then I washed up, left a note for Frantz, before heading for the Louvre. It was kind of exciting. I've seen the pyramids before but never actually the museum. And all that fuss fuss with Mona Lisa, of course.

Recall my obsession with researching free stuff? Another tip: the Musee du Louvre is free every Friday night for those under 26. I think I will visit again this Friday because it was truly larger than I had ever imagined and I didn't even see half of it, seriously.

Total price of sites seen so far = 0 euros :)

While in queue, a funny thing happened to me. Someone mistook me for a French speaker.

"Parlez-vous anglais?"
I turned around, "Oui! Hi, I speak English."
A wave of relief over the man's face.

The were Irish, living in London: Garry and Lorcan. So friendly, too! I explained the under 26 rule and they were appreciative of that. Funny how strangers meet and become friends... We ended up exploring the Louvre together and the visit was really enjoyable. They're both incredibly funny and I discovered a humorous way of viewing art. I can't look at a certain piece without remembering my own sort of connection with it (thanks to Garry's unique commentary : "Evil cherubs and hermaphrodites define mid evil art")

I think we became a bit too attached to the exhibitions however. I've always had a thing for Egyptian art and that's where the Monsieur Cravate Rouge incident took place. We were taking pictures with a statue when all of a sudden, this man wearing an obscenely loud tie, attacked us. NO, not literally but verbally, "What eeess zeees?! WHERE IS YOUR REELATIONSHIP WEEF ZEEE ART?," grabbing my book which we placed beside the statue. We were shocked into utter silence, looking like a herd of retarded cows no doubt. He thrust my book into Garry's hands while I had visions of the French news stations reporting, "Three tourists were physically dragged from the Musee du Louvre tonight after obnoxiously approaching an ancient artifact valued at more than their life's worth..."

But you know what? The stupid man wasn't even a museum worker. He was just another measly tourist himself. Wth. I wanted to slap him across the head with my book and be like, "I have more relationship with this art than you will ever have, sniffing around this museum like it's a graveyard and not the most amazing collections of artwork that this world has possibly... ever... seen!!" Touche.

Monsieur Cravate Rouge hardly ruined our night however, more like made it. We had a laugh over food and drinks at a nearby bistro after the museum closed for the night. Those Irish were possibly the funniest tourists I've ever met while traveling... I had a coffee and they, beer, while we discussed everything from religious philosophies to the gay community. Then, I totally pulled a Cinderella as they announced it was getting close to midnight. I had told Frantz I would be home by 9 or 10pm. Panicked, I took their emails and apologized, while I ran into the nearest metro.

Chapter 3 : A Bit of Paris Nightlife

Back at the 15th district, I sprinted to the apartment and... he wasn't there. Total relief. He had decided to see a movie with his sister and would be back by 12:30. Time for a new chapter called: Chrysan convinced Frantz that he is not old and you cannot POSSIBLY go to bed at 12:30 on a friday night. Good heavens...

Frantz returned and I, of course, said it was time for some nightlife. I am 18... almost 19 after all. Some groans and I-am-too-old's later, we were both headed for les Doubilles (spelling?) which turned out to be a regular, what-you'd-expect sort of bar/club except the music was exceptionally well mixed (wish I could see the DJ). A bit overpriced in drinks, however, but a new experience and for Frantz too I guess: "That was the easiest time I've ever had getting into this place." Next, we decided to check out Chez Regine, which is off the Champs Elysees. It had an annoying bouncer who insisted it was too late to go in. All those "never give up" mantras from grade school finally paid off and I used my bit of French to get to go in the club.

Chez Regine was nice but the bouncer was right... it was winding down. We had one drink and found a taxi stand to call it a night. We arrived back around 5:30am and for some reason, I was completely energized! I was online doing some emailing and checking my Facebook when I saw some pictures that an old classmate and friend had uploaded: they were of Paris! I was seriously excited so I left a message on her page. Then, I fell fast asleep...

Saturday, January 5, 2008

A Paris Guide

"I'm not suggesting that there should be two names on every book, and I'm sure that, years from now, young writers will still turn to the Bukowskis and Kerouacs for models of how to tell stories that matter. It would be nice to think there was another model, though, one that could inspire a pair of young, edgy writers to walk along lonely railroad tracks, kicking rocks and running dialogue back and forth for the story they were writing. Or better yet: a husband and wife team in Nikes, debating about how to close a novel chapter as one folds laundry and the other changes a diaper."

Here are some tips that may be handy the next time you, or anyone you know, may be traveling to Paris:

1. If you are under 26 and traveling sometime before June 30 2008, do not even consider paying for any sort of entrance fee to the big museums:


FREE
Wednesday evenings at the Centre Pompidou from 6 pm to 9 pm ;
Thursday evenings at the Musée d'Orsay from 6 pm to 9:45 pm ;
Friday evenings at the Musée du Louvre from 6 pm to 10 pm ;
Saturday evenings at the Musée du Quai Branly from 6 pm to 9 pm.


2. If you're staying for more than 3 days, definitely buy a weekly pass. The metro is god. However, they stop selling weekly passes after Wednesday because the cycle starts every Monday.

3. Buy fruits/vegetables/flowers/cheese/meats from the markets- so much fresher than the supermarkets.

4. Cafe meals are kind of a rip off; best just get a glass of wine or a cup of coffee when you're needing a break. They don't give you evil stares if you have just one drink and stay there for like 3 hours (unlike the U.S.)

5. Don't buy a whole baguette if you're just eating by yourself. They go stale really easily... if you buy just a demi-baguette, or half of it, you'll only end up spending like 45 cents... fresh and yummy! It's always easy to go into another boulangerie and get more, kept warm too, if you want more than that...

6. The tour eiffel really isn't that great to go up (except if you want to be all romantic with someone else and eat at the expensive restaurant.... eh, save it for a wedding proposal). There are tons of other, even better, views of Paris. The view from Montmartre by Sacre Coeur is freeeee and spectacular. Anyway, I think it's better viewing the Eiffel tower which lights up really prettily at night than actually being in it... I still want to go to Trocadero which is supposed to have the best view of the monument :]

7. Make an effort with the French. I feel like people understand you more when you say it with a cocky-yet-somehow-polite attitude...

8. Wear tons of black (at least in winter). Berets are surprisingly not cheesy...

9. Don't forget to say "Bonjour/Bonsoir" and "Au Revoir" profusely. And "Pardon"/"Excusez-moi" too.

10. Paris being expensive is a common misconception. There's always some clever ways to avoid opening your wallet-- you just have to be creative like... taking a regular commuter bus that shows some amazing views instead of that 20 euro tour on a similar bus, only labeled "Paris Tourism" or buying a great bottle of wine at the market where they can be as cheap as 50 cents! Accept stuff when it doesn't go your way (which will definitely happen); Lastly, be spontaneous and love the city and love your bit of FREEDOM before having to go back to chaotic New York :\

Some great links:
NY Times
Voice of a City (Real Parisians dish some secrets...)
Paris Nightlife
Map of Paris

And others to follow...



Cheers! Bon Sante!

Thursday, January 3, 2008

Cuisine and the French Alliance

15e arrondisement

"Everyone has two countries, his or her own-- and France."


A lot to write about since I last opened my journal, yesterday afternoon. After a dessert and cafe, I walked through the Eiffel Tower and took a metro back to the apartment for a siesta. Had tea, checked email and read somewhere that there's a flower market in front of Notre Dame. There was still plenty of time before dinner (9pm tonight...) so I went.


La Seine during the day.

Notre Dame and la Seine at night is a whole different experience. I couldn't find any sort of market and promptly got lost wandering the narrow streets of the 6th. Amazing places to eat there and a lot of bookstores- very artsy!

The apartment was smelling delicious when I returned. That's the strange thing about France: the men can cook. And not just like spaghetti with tomato sauce... or dialing the pizza delivery.

This kind of debate with Frantz for a while before we heard someone at the door: Pierre and his girlfriend, Jessica. Kisses all around and we stepped into the kitchen. Jessica is actually American and we started chatting right away, giggling at how the men are preparing the food. She's been in Paris three years now, one of which was a study abroad. I can tell she's thriving; her French sounds so natural. It made me wonder if I'll ever be that ambitious enough to completely adopt another culture as my own.

Great food, drink, conversation, and people. The next day, I had to wake up early to go to Alliance Francaise and take my registration exam. I was a little nervous to be honest but I got through all right (except for le sujonctif) and I've signed up to take an intensive course in General French next week (20hrs!). Wish me luck... classes start Monday.

Wednesday, January 2, 2008

Metro to Le Petit Palais

Le Petit Palais
8e Arrondisement

Le Petit Palais as opposed to Le Grand Palais?

Last night, I had a very good sleep and drifted off listening to some French couple arguing on the level below me. The walls are very thin... Woke up to Frantz's alarm going off in the next room quite a few times. Finally, he woke up and I joined him for some coffee and toast in the kitchen. he went off to work and I washed the dishes. Then, I washed myself up and went out. Beautiful, but cold, day!



I walked around aimlessly this morning until I found a metro (An image of the "Easy" button just appeared in my head: "That was easy!") I bought a weekly metro ticket and hopped on a train-- honestly having no clue where it was going to take me-- I ended up in Place de la Concorde!

I took a round about to the Champs Elysees until I reached Le Grand Palais: long line to see this train exhibition so I crossed the street and went into a smaller but equally beautiful building, le Petit Palais. Free exhibition today! One point for me...



I have to say the place was such a pleasant surprise. It was amazing! And all gratuit... I saw Monets in real life. I could practically reach out and kiss it if I wanted to (and promptly be dragged out by the museum guards). The best part was the diversity of the exhibitions. With museums, I can get bored fast if there's no variety. But Petit Palais had everything from ancient Greece to Modern and Contemporary. They even mixed in the contemporary with the classics under the same theme... really refreshing.



I spent forever in there. I had to drag myself away. Afterwards, I wandered into the left bank's 7th... always nice. I know it might be a tourist trap but the environment was so beautiful. Narrow alleys, cobblestone, boulangeries everywhere... I found myself right in front of Cafe Constant which I heard about before and so I decided to try it out. Turned out to be well worth it...

Tuesday, January 1, 2008

Getting Settled into the 15th and Bistro Dinner

11pm
77 Bis Rue des Entrepreneurs
15me Arrondisement

I knew I should've written down stuff before I went to bed... because I ended up sleeping the whole day! I seriously fell asleep around 9am and woke up close to 6pm. I was going to do some exploring... but alorssssss

This morning was very hectic. Everything from getting in tough with my taxi to figuring out how to get into Frant'z apartment. On a whim, I had booked a taxi shuttle to the apartment. I figured that I didnt wantto drag my bags through the metro. Thank goodness I did that because there was a strike today.

However, my taxi driver didn't know that I was on a different flight so I completely panicked. In the end, I sprinted to Terminal 1 and asked a man if I could borrow his mobile phone to call the company. The man was British and we finally found my taxi driver. Cheer!

Never take a taxi except to and from the airport. It's so worth it. First, no worrying about getting lost or having to lug bags. Second, fantastic views of the neighborhood. I just couldn't believe I was seeing the Eiffel Tower as we crossed the Seine into the 15th arrondisement. It looked surreal. Like we were in a movie...

This whole time I just cannot stop thinking that I am actually in Paris... in Europe... not in America... I'm actually in Paris.

I'm staying at 77 Bis Rue des Entrepreneurs. There's a huge gate with a little courtyard. You have to take a wooden spiral staircase or the tiny elevator to get to the apartment. It's small but cozy.

Tomorrow, I'm going to pay a visit to the French school and see if there's any way I can still take a course. If not, then I will have to figure out an itinerary. DEFINITELY want to hit up all the museums... It's like museum heaven here. Things to do: clubs, bars, cafes, shops, markets, theater, so much!

After unpacking and such, we went out to eat at a bistro... very late. Parisians don't start dinner until at least 7:30. I have no idea how they don't get hungry from lunch till then. I had a glass of red wine, sparkling water with a steak... apple tart with ice-cream for dessert! Very delicious...

Conversation was great, as well. I think he is getting tired of me exclaiming how I can't believe I'm here in Paris. And I still really can't! You know, most young people will say they want to do a lot of stuff but they never follow through. But somehow, I knew what I wanted and I actually went for it! Scratching off one New Years resolution :]

Happy New Years from Paris!