15e Arrondisement
Cafe, practically writing a novel
Chapter One: Some Realizations at Musee d'Orsay So much has been happening and it's now been officially one week since I came to Paris... feels so much longer than that. Feels like an eternity (in an absolutely magnificent way, of course). I just returned from my first day of class at Alliance Francaise and now having a coffee at a brasserie near the apartment, determined to put on paper all that's happened so far. An impossible task seems like but I will do it somehow- it's a writer's responsibility to translate experiences and emotions, as indescribable as Paris, into penned words.
Fuck. Where do I even begin? The Louvre, Orsay, Sacre Coeur, reuniting with a high school friend... complete saturation of ideas and memories both distance and sharp. It's kind of like an impressionist painting: blurry up close, but vibrant, bold, and understandable from a distance. OK, let's back up then.
Last Wednesday and Thursday was my dinner with Frantz's friends and registering for my French course (which I've just begun this week). Previously, I had learned that the Musee d'Orsay was free on Thursday nights from 6pm on for those younger than 26 years old (this later led to a "teehee" sort of scavenger hunt for all free of charge events and other loopholes which most people don't know about). So armed with my journal and fully charged camera, I took the metro to the site and found quite a line to gain entrance.
I really had one thing on my mind as I finally entered the place: Impressionists. So, I took some quick pictures of the interior (it used to be a train station) and then bolted for the upper level galleries. Wrong move wearing heels that night... I completely killed my feet. But anyway, it wasn't on my mind all that much. The upper level gallery is like Impressionism heaven, with the ignorant swarming the well-known pieces. But I took my time. I feel as though I walk around Paris with my mouth wide open a lot. The symptons: neck cramps and dry mouth. The French prescription: down those bottles of wine like it's water!
There's no possible way to describe the Orsay collection of impressionists but I'll try my best. OK, imagine this: you're walking through a dream, as if on some sort of narcotic, in which monet pastels and vivid Van Gogh golds and blues and rosey reniors swirl about in some trippy sort of concoction. Yep, that's the closest description I can come to. It's life-changing, no joke!
On the verge of sounding like a complete museum freak/nerd/loser, I was
so so excited to see Klimt (my idol) except, much to my disappointment, they had only a one single painting.... People were wondering why my expression kept changing from joy to hatred, back and forth. ONE SINGLE PAINTING of possibly the greatest emotional portraying artist ever...
After leaving Orsay, I wondered a lot about my life for some reason. I'm finding that Paris makes you do that. I decided to take a walk to St. Germain for something to eat and all of a sudden felt really... lonely but happy too... but sad at the same time (recall: scene from Montparnasse woman in film, Paris, Je T'aime) I've felt lonely at other times- my biggest worry about coming to Paris. It's like a lonely feeling in which I wish I had someone to talk with. But then at the same time, so happy that I'm alone and free in a sort of way. I was just like, you know what- I'm here, I did it, and to hell with people and disappointments. I started thinking about the past year a lot since last January when I was a senior in high school: I had a pretty rough year with relationships (friends, guys, parents, etc). But I feel like now, I'm ready to finally be by myself and accept myself. It's strange when it takes some crazy initiative and some kind of gut feeling to understand that. Whatever the case, I embraced it and was just like, okay- done with. So, I found an amazing creperie and ordered a crepe with everything on it and a glass of Chardonnay. It tasted as good as a painting.
Chapter 2: The Monsieur Cravate Rouge incident at Musee du LouvreThe next day, I let myself sleep in (we're on Friday, now?). And then I washed up, left a note for Frantz, before heading for the Louvre. It was kind of exciting. I've seen the pyramids before but never actually the museum. And all that fuss fuss with Mona Lisa, of course.
Recall my obsession with researching free stuff? Another tip: the Musee du Louvre is free every Friday night for those under 26. I think I will visit again this Friday because it was truly larger than I had ever imagined and I didn't even see half of it, seriously.
Total price of sites seen so far = 0 euros :)
While in queue, a funny thing happened to me. Someone mistook me for a French speaker.
"Parlez-vous anglais?"
I turned around, "Oui! Hi, I speak English."
A wave of relief over the man's face.
The were Irish, living in London: Garry and Lorcan. So friendly, too! I explained the under 26 rule and they were appreciative of that. Funny how strangers meet and become friends... We ended up exploring the Louvre together and the visit was really enjoyable. They're both incredibly funny and I discovered a humorous way of viewing art. I can't look at a certain piece without remembering my own sort of connection with it (thanks to Garry's unique commentary : "Evil cherubs and hermaphrodites define mid evil art")
I think we became a bit too attached to the exhibitions however. I've always had a thing for Egyptian art and that's where the Monsieur Cravate Rouge incident took place. We were taking pictures with a statue when all of a sudden, this man wearing an obscenely loud tie, attacked us. NO, not literally but verbally, "What eeess zeees?! WHERE IS YOUR REELATIONSHIP WEEF ZEEE ART?," grabbing my book which we placed beside the statue. We were shocked into utter silence, looking like a herd of retarded cows no doubt. He thrust my book into Garry's hands while I had visions of the French news stations reporting, "Three tourists were physically dragged from the Musee du Louvre tonight after obnoxiously approaching an ancient artifact valued at more than their life's worth..."
But you know what? The stupid man wasn't even a museum worker. He was just another measly tourist himself. Wth. I wanted to slap him across the head with my book and be like, "I have more relationship with this art than you will ever have, sniffing around this museum like it's a graveyard and not the most amazing collections of artwork that this world has possibly... ever... seen!!" Touche.
Monsieur Cravate Rouge hardly ruined our night however, more like made it. We had a laugh over food and drinks at a nearby bistro after the museum closed for the night. Those Irish were possibly the funniest tourists I've ever met while traveling... I had a coffee and they, beer, while we discussed everything from religious philosophies to the gay community. Then, I totally pulled a Cinderella as they announced it was getting close to midnight. I had told Frantz I would be home by 9 or 10pm. Panicked, I took their emails and apologized, while I ran into the nearest metro.
Chapter 3 : A Bit of Paris Nightlife
Back at the 15th district, I sprinted to the apartment and... he wasn't there. Total relief. He had decided to see a movie with his sister and would be back by 12:30. Time for a new chapter called: Chrysan convinced Frantz that he is not old and you cannot POSSIBLY go to bed at 12:30 on a friday night. Good heavens...
Frantz returned and I, of course, said it was time for some nightlife. I am 18... almost 19 after all. Some groans and I-am-too-old's later, we were both headed for les Doubilles (spelling?) which turned out to be a regular, what-you'd-expect sort of bar/club except the music was exceptionally well mixed (wish I could see the DJ). A bit overpriced in drinks, however, but a new experience and for Frantz too I guess: "That was the easiest time I've ever had getting into this place." Next, we decided to check out Chez Regine, which is off the Champs Elysees. It had an annoying bouncer who insisted it was too late to go in. All those "never give up" mantras from grade school finally paid off and I used my bit of French to get to go in the club.
Chez Regine was nice but the bouncer was right... it was winding down. We had one drink and found a taxi stand to call it a night. We arrived back around 5:30am and for some reason, I was completely energized! I was online doing some emailing and checking my Facebook when I saw some pictures that an old classmate and friend had uploaded: they were of Paris! I was seriously excited so I left a message on her page. Then, I fell fast asleep...